#SATURN SKY RED LINE FREE#

So, if you want the clutch to engage later in the pedal movement, run it. After the break-in period (500 to 1000 mi), it will move into the middle of the pedal travel - like 'normal'. This, however, only happens at the very beginning of the clutches life. Since the Spec setup engages at the bottom of the pedal, near the floor (when new), the spacer was introduced. The short version is this: it changes the engagement point of the clutch. If you are wanting to run it, here's what it does. I know there are a few options given here, but again, I am not sure of your setup. That way you are not having to handle and/or wrestle everything at once. This might be easier if you are not on a lift. Then remove the diff, after the axles are out. If the diff is not loose, then you will need to either loosen it, or remove the passenger side, using the same steps as above. As stated above, this method only requires the driver's to be. More the diff over and remove the pass's side. This will allow it to 'compress' the pass's side and allow you to remove the driver's side axle. It needs to be raised almost as high as it can go, into its 'pocket'. When you have the diff loose, then remove the driver's side axle first, by pushing it (the diff) over to the pass's side. Now, depending on whether you have the diff loose or not depends on what to do next.

#SATURN SKY RED LINE FREE#

Once you have done this, the axle(s) should be free to move around. Penetrating oil is also a good option.Īfter the top joint is loose, let the knuckle fall towards the outside of the car. Usually, I will rap on the control arm near the ball joint, or the knuckle, and it will release. Leave the nut on if you are hitting from the bottom. Just don't mar the threading on the ball joint. Even if you have to hit it harder, it will be ok. Therefore a light, but firm blow from a hammer should release them. NOTE: all of the cars that I have done, the ball joints and taper fit items have all popped out relatively easily. In case you don't know, the tie-rod, ball joint and drive shaft nuts are all 18mm. Hang it/tie it from the upper control arm as not to stress the brake line. NOTE: if you are wanting remove the knuckle and get it out of the way, see below. This is going to sounds like a lot of steps, and work, but it will make things go 'better', as they say. However, if you are not on a lift, dis-assembling both would make things a bit easier.

Since it does have the torque arm, you are required to partially dis-assemble at least the driver's side knuckle. therefore, what you are mentioning below is questions regarding that. I am pretty sure that your Redline has the torque arm.

Thanks for the help, this is turning into such a pain….ĭon’t know if there are any other “gotchas” til I get further along. Two quick questions:ġ) How can I pull the axle shafts out without disassembling the wheel hub assembly? It only pulls out about 1 ½ inches, and won’t go any further.Ģ) Do you end up using the spacer provided for the throwout assembly? I have heard “experts” on both sides of the issue. I am installing the Spec 3+ clutch and flywheel from you folks into my Sky Redline ( I would have had you do it, if I was even remotely in the area). I hope this information can make this easier for others. The turbo does not have to come off, as stated in some sources. DDM Works is a great resource and we should support them. Thanks to Yellowboy504/Monadzback/Sky888 for getting me to John Edwards at DDM Works. It sucks, by the way, and I have done quite a few others. Just a few details on the wonderful world of the Redline clutch swap.

Saturn sky red line